This is the new TRADE MARK for my designs.
Here you can see the final look of the “#Artificial_Life_Lighting”, based on WS2812B addressable LEDs driven by Raspberry Pi 3 + Teensy 3.2. Design of this project is made in cooperation with my friend and colleague Filip Dobias in occasion of Designblok 2016. In videos, you can see application of the generative art script, mentioned below this article. It use cellular automata + boids algorithm to produce these beautiful fields of colors, actually it is kind of artificial life, based on simple rules developing on the 2D plane in time.
The screen is circular cutout of the matrix 24x24px = 440 LEDs and it has more than one meter in diameter. LED’s are projecting RGB light and mixing together on the screen made out of opal organic glass. The software is running on the Raspberry Pi 3 computer + Teensy 3.2 and it is live stream projected on the screen. The colour of the light can be off-course changed or manipulated in to the white light or any other color wirelessly from the laptop, PC , smartphone or any other device trough the VNC client.
We used this animation, as our favourite generative art script outcome. It was sourced from this amazing site: rectangleworld.com Thank you a’lot for your awesome work, we appreciate it’s simple beauty.
ESP8266 is quite new wireless LUA based microcontroller, it is possible to use it with Arduino IDE as well, which is handy. This module runs at 3,3V and you can connect it into your existing local network or use it as standalone acesspoint / hotspot. It can host web server based control that you can manipulate from any connected device trough web browser. With it’s dimensions of 16x24mm, it’s one of the best options NOW for developing simple wireless IOT devices. The ESP8266 – E12 I´m using for my projects has VCC(3,3V), GND, 17 GPIO’s incluiding serial rx/tx pins and SPI, one ADC and PCB antenna. There is also an option to use this device attached to the breakout board (great for uploading of software before build in to the device where there is not necessary serial connection) or to use all at one board solution as Node-MCU board, which has built in usb to uart shifter, 5v to 3,3V power converter and two useful buttons, one for code upload and one for reset. Possibility to connect SD card straight trough SPI allow’s you to have server big as much as you wish to have.
As you might notice, I have been playing with augmented reality for a while. But now there is a possibility to connect augmented reality with new wave of interest in virtual reality. Now days there is a huge campaign to popularize virtual reality to be used by public for a first time as a mass made product. This mania started probably with super cheap solution from google. The idea was just to split your smartphone’s screen to stereoscopic view with an app, and than just to clip it in to cardboard holder with two enlarging lenses and magnet trigger. I as a developer of augmented reality apps didn’t miss this mania and I tested this feature on my 3D printed headset. I was amazed by future possibilities and later I ordered Samsung Gear VR headset for my Samsung Gallaxy S6. Contemporary I’m working on making AR_VR apps for Android devices to add virtual content in stereoscopic view and match it to target image/object in real world. The image is fed trough back camera on the device and split in to stereo, than the virtual content is added if the target is recognized and final image is displayed on the split screen and perceived by each eye individually. This is another great tool for any designer to show virtual designs to costumers during the period before the production. The advantage is in natural stereo mode display and authentic scale comparison in real world environment.
target image/object: (this cube(100x100x100 mm) with QR codes on it should be placed in real world environment)
My interest in fractals haven´t vanished yet since last time I used them. So I decided to start to mess with them again, this time in 3D. My basic tool to generate fractals is free software for modeling and rendering of fractal geometries called Mandebulb. In general you can discover new shapes, structures or whole new worlds in it. There are several examples predefined in libraries ready to load and play with, or you can set your own straight from scratch. You can also browse internet with search for: FRACTALS or MANDEBULB and you will find hunderds of photos and videos and sometimes people do share their definitions for particular image. For me as designer and artist are these whole new worlds you can’t even imagine in your dreams fascinating and amazing source of inspiration.
Contemporary, I ´m playing with the idea of using new possibilities of IOT (internet of things) in my projects. I have been using Arduino and Raspberry-Pi in my projects for a while, so that´s why it was my first choice to use them as hardware. These familiar open source devices to me, are quite easy to setup and straight forward to use, with amazing and big community of users sharing their skills, codes and guides online.
This can be used basically to remotely control devices as home automation (turn on/off heating/lighting …) or as original responsive design products remotely commanded trough custom UI (user interface) in any web browser or as an app in customer’s device.
There are many other’s open source software for Raspberry-Pi with web interface, mostly focused at home automation as openHAB, but they seem’s to me a bit more complex than necessary for basic purposes.
Contemporary I´m working on mechanical and optical system that is going to move face towards sun during the day and use it´s energy to produce electric power, that may charge your phone for example . It might also work opposite way and illuminate interior during the cloudy days or at night, as it would sun if it could. Now it is in the stage where the mechanical components does work in small scale, and I´m able to rotate the plane 360° around in angle up to 45°. Next step I´m working on is to scale up the whole concept and to design the final form.
These are my new bowls I designed in occasion of IGS (International Glass Symposium) 2015 held in Nový Bor this autumn. They were made in participation with company TGK. Bowls are made of two sheets of transparent clear or colored glass, slumped in to hollow circular mold, and connected with transparent silicone. One type is also coated by aluminium vapors inside.
You might have seen some of my objects printed out of ABS material already here at my website or at my FB account.
There is some more info about this new equipment in my workshop. I ve´been already using this printer for more than half of the year, and I had to make quite many improvements before the results came out regulary in a good quality. Mankati FullScale is solid FDM 3D printer with metal frame, ballscrew at Z axis and with X,Y,E build similar to the american Ultimaker, but this one has two extruders in the basic composition. I bought it from first user(profesional 3D print company), where they tested it, if it suits for their work. They had to make already some improvements before I bought it, and gave me some advice when I needed it in the begining, they also undergo me licence for software and recommended some other to use. Printer had some Achilles´ heels from the beginning, first there were problems with original hotends (0.4mm for 3mm fillament), so guys using it before me, replaced them with new one´s made of stainless steel from Prusa. But still it was quite incomfortable to replace them if fillament got stuck and there was also problem with leveling of one extruder to the other one. So I ended up with settings improving this fault. First I added screws at hotends, threaded holes in to the head to manage leveling, and threaded the holes on the top of the head as well for aditional ftpe tube push fit connector that ensure easy access from the top in to the hot-end it self. With this betterment I am able to keep the hot-ends warm on the place and I need just to drill off stuck plastic from inside the nozzle with 3mm in dia long drill bit by hand. Than I can guide filament back to the hot hole and push by hand on the rod to squeeze out some plastic. That´s all! Now I can tighten back the connector of the tube and continue printing.
…. article in progress